Hiking Olympic National Forest’s unprotected wildlands

The Olympic Mountains are known internationally as one of the finest remaining natural areas on Earth. Visitors flock to the region during all seasons to experience its outstanding forests, rivers, subalpine meadows, and glaciers firsthand. Most visit only the most well known attractions, leaving the more obscure (though often equally impressive) areas to those with the curiosity and willingness to seek them out. 

What follows are descriptions of how to access some of these special places in our beloved Olympic National Forest, ranging from easy day hikes to energetic, multi-day adventures. What distinguishes the hikes below, however, is that each traverses a wild landscape that has yet to receive ironclad protection via congressional Wilderness designation. As a result, despite their beauty and critical wildlife habitat, these areas remain vulnerable to future logging and destructive road building. Immensely valuable in their own right, the continued integrity of these areas directly contributes to the health of the Olympic Ecoregion as a whole. But don’t take our word for it—visit these areas, form your own opinion, and let our leaders in Congress know what you think.

Deer Ridge trail #846

Description: Moderately strenuous, late spring through mid-fall. The Deer Ridge trail climbs 2,800 feet in five miles from its trailhead at Slab Camp in Olympic National Forest to Deer Park in Olympic National Park. The trail’s first two miles proceed through unprotected wildland, which OFCO proposes for addition to the nearby Buckhorn Wilderness Area. En route, the trail offers impressive vistas into the Graywolf Valley and the snowy peaks rising above.

Getting there: From Sequim, drive US 101 west across the Dungeness River bridge, turning left soon afterward on Taylor Cutoff Road. Drive Taylor Cutoff two and a half miles, then make a right on Lost Mountain Road. After another two and a half miles on Lost Mountain, make a left onto Forest Service Road 2875. Slab Camp is reached after four and a half miles on 2875.

Description: Easy-to-moderate, mid-spring through fall. The Ned Hill trail climbs 900 feet in a little over a mile to an abandoned fire lookout, which still stands. The lookout is unsafe to climb on. Views are scarce on this trail. It is best suited for leisurely walks around early June, when the forest is decorated with wild rhododendron blooms. OFCO proposes this area for addition to the adjacent Buckhorn Wilderness.

Getting there: From Slab Camp (see Hike #1), make a left on Forest Service Road 2878. Drive three-tenths of a mile to the trailhead (possibly unmarked) on the right side of the road.

Description: Easy-to-strenuous, depending on length of walk, spring through fall. The Lower Graywolf trail penetrates the wildest low elevation portion of the northeastern Olympic Mountains. The first one and a half mile of trail skips along a rehabilitated road grade in an area proposed for addition to the Buckhorn Wilderness. This section affords views to nearby peaks, as well as gorgeous stands of unprotected old-growth on the valley bottom. After the road grade transitions to original trail, one may turn left (downvalley) at an obscure junction onto an abandoned trail to see the big trees up close.

Getting there: From Sequim Bay State Park on U.S. 101, drive one and a half mile west and go left on Palo Alto Road. After seven and a half miles of twists and turns on Palo Alto, make a right at a 3-way intersection onto Forest Service Road 2880. After two miles on 2880, at a T intersection, go right on FS Road 2870. Drive one and a half mile on 2870, crossing the Graywolf River en route, to the new trailhead on the left.

Description: Moderate, spring through fall. This trail explores a densely forested canyon in the middle reaches of the celebrated Dungeness River. Despite the tree cover, excellent views of surrounding high peaks are reached intermittently. old-growth Douglas-fir trees add a special appeal. The nearly six miles of the Lower Dungeness trail make for fun early and late season outings. OFCO proposes an alternative protective designation for the canyon in this area, in order to accommodate bicycle use.

Getting there: There are three access points to the Lower Dungeness trail. Follow the driving directions in Hike #3 to the T intersection, but this time go left on FS Road 2870. Approximately three miles more, 2870 meets FS Road 2860. For the lower access, go left on 2860 to its closure point at the trailhead. For the middle access, instead go right on 2860 another three or so miles to a short spur trail on the left side of the road, where it rounds Three O’Clock Ridge. For the upper access, continue along 2860 an additional three miles to a large parking area where the road crosses the Dungeness River. The Lower Dungeness trail proceeds downstream from here, just north of the bridge.

Description: Easy-to-moderately strenuous, depending on length of walk, spring through fall. The Upper Dungeness trail is separated from its Lower counterpart (Hike #4) by FS Road 2860. The first mile of the Upper Dungeness trail follows a route through superb, though unprotected, wild country. The huge Douglas-fir trees and crystal clear river along the way are the pinnacle of forest scenery. Only after the trail crosses Royal Creek on a footbridge is the landscape protected. A side trip through additional unprotected greenery may be improvised by going right at the Royal Creek junction for one tenth of a mile, then making another right onto the sketchy Lower Maynard Burn way trail, onward to the Upper Maynard Burn way trail, for a total of three extra miles. OFCO proposes that all of this area be added to the Buckhorn Wilderness.

Getting there: Follow the driving directions in Hike #4 to the upper access. The Upper Dungeness trailhead is directly across the road from the Lower Dungeness trailhead.

Description: Moderate, spring through fall. The six and a half mile Gold Creek trail is a sibling of the Lower Dungeness trail (Hike #4), allowing exploration of the opposite slope of the canyon. As noted in Hike #4, OFCO proposes an alternative protective designation for this particular area, so as to accommodate existing bicycle use.

Getting there: There are two access points to the Gold Creek trail. For the lower trail access, follow the directions in Hike #4 to its lower access, where both the Gold Creek and Lower Dungeness hikes begin. For the upper Gold Creek trail access, follow the directions in Hike #4 to its upper access, then continue driving on FS Road 2860 three an a half miles more to the possibly unmarked though obvious trailhead on the left.

Description: Moderately strenuous, late spring through mid-fall. An up and down route regardless of direction, this four-mile trail is best known for its here-to-forever views of Olympic Rain Shadow peaks and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, as well its connection with the ever popular Mount Townsend trail. Fascinating, gothic rock formations decorate the crest of Dirty Face Ridge. OFCO proposes that this rugged area be added to the Buckhorn Wilderness.

Getting there: There are two access points to trail #835. For the Dirty Face Ridge access, follow the directions in Hikes #4 and #6 to the upper Gold Creek trail access, then drive a very short distance farther to the possibly unmarked trailhead on the left. The Dirty Face Ridge trailhead is directly across the road from the Tubal Cain trailhead parking area. For the Little Quilcene access, from the town of Quilcene, drive two miles north on U.S. 101, then turn left on Lord’s Lake Road. Follow Lord’s Lake for three and a half miles to where it becomes Forest Service Road 28. Follow FS 28 a little over five miles (ignoring FS Road 2810 branching to the right at Bon Jon Pass), then turn left on FS Road 2820. The trailhead is on the right of FS 2820 after four additional miles of driving.

Description: Easy-to-moderate, spring through fall. The two-mile Mount Zion trail is a favorite of locals who enjoy its proximity to their homes, as well as the summit’s stunning views of the jagged Olympic peaks to the west and Hood Canal to the southeast. Rhododendron blooms in June are also a draw. OFCO proposes that this wildland be permanently protected as a Mount Zion Wilderness Area.

Getting there: Follow the directions for the Little Quilcene access in Hike #7 to Bon Jon Pass, but this time turn right on Forest Service Road 2810. Follow FS 2810 two miles to the trailhead on the right. A new, alternate route up Mount Zion may also be located about a mile south of Bon Jon Pass on FS Road 28.

Description: Moderate, spring through fall. The Notch Pass trail has recently been reconstructed by the Forest Service after years of abandonment. It climbs from the foothills above Quilcene through dense, dark forest, to a low "notch" along the ridge of Green Mountain. It makes for a fine leg-stretcher either early or late in the hiking season. OFCO proposes that the surrounding wild country here be permanently protected as a Green Mountain Wilderness Area.

Getting there: From Quilcene, drive U.S. 101 south (west) one and a half mile, then turn right on Penny Creek Road. After another mile and a half, stay left at a fork, proceeding one additional mile to the junction with Pipeline Road (010). Turn right here a mile or so to the marked trailhead on the left. Pipeline Road is a narrow, one-lane dirt road with limited parking, but is reasonable, especially with a smaller vehicle.

Description: Easy-to-strenuous depending on length of walk, late spring through fall. The Sink Lake trail refers to the approximately one and a half mile of the Mount Townsend trail here that is not protected via Wilderness designation. With the exception of the lower and upper trailheads’ immediate environs, OFCO proposes that this area be added to the adjacent Buckhorn Wilderness Area. Near Sink Lake, views reach to the improbable heights of Mount Townsend and its companion ridge. Rhododendrons are especially showy here in June.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #9 to the Big Quilcene River Road. Make a left to follow the Big Quil, which becomes Forest Service Road 27. Follow this road twelve miles. Then, for the lower access, make a left on FS Road 2760, and spot the trailhead on the right in less than one mile. For the upper access, continue on FS 27 past the junction with FS 2760 approximately one mile, and turn left at a sharp switchback onto a spur road to its end.

Description: Strenuous, late spring through mid-fall. Carry lots of water. High, dry, and airy, the Jupiter Ridge trail follows the crest of the Dosewallips/Duckabush divide for seven miles, to the summit of Mount Jupiter in The Brothers Wilderness. Viewpoints from rocky outcrops, becoming more frequent the farther one hikes, are nothing short of spectacular. Currently, only the final two miles of the trail are on protected land. To correct this omission, OFCO seeks to add the remainder of Jupiter Ridge to The Brothers Wilderness.

Getting there: On U.S. 101, drive three miles south of the Dosewallips River Road junction or one and a half mile north of the Duckabush River Road junction, then turn west onto Mount Jupiter Road (presently signed). Drive this road seven and a half miles to the trailhead, paying close attention to road signs through a large and confusing tree farm. High clearance vehicles are preferable.

Description: Easy to strenuous depending on length of walk, spring through fall. The first mile of the Duckabush River trail to Little Hump is unprotected. It proceeds through an area that was railroad-logged in the early 1900s, which now sports a robust, second growth forest with surprisingly large trees. This portion of the trail doesn’t exceed 800 feet in elevation, and may sometimes be hiked snow-free in winter. OFCO proposes that this area be added to The Brothers Wilderness nearby.

Getting there: On U.S. 101, drive three and a half miles south of Brinnon or twenty-two miles north of Hoodsport, then turn west on the Duckabush River Road. After six miles on the river road, look for a sign that will direct you to the trailhead parking area on the right.

Description: Easy, spring through fall. The Murhut Falls trail is a kid-friendly hike of less than a mile to the edge of the Olympic wild country. Watch children closely near the falls, however. The creek's cascades, pounding their way through the somber ancient trees, are at their best during spring snowmelt. OFCO seeks to add this portion of Murhut Creek and the forest beyond it to The Brothers Wilderness.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #12, but continue past the Duckabush River trailhead and cross the river. At a junction immediately following the bridge, go right on Forest Service Road 2530, climb two switchbacks, and look for the trailhead on the right.

Lena Lake trail #810, West Fork Lena Creek trail #811

Description: Easy-to-moderate, spring through fall. Of all the hikes in unprotected areas described in this guide, the trail to Lena Lake is by far the most popular. Don’t expect loneliness, but do come for the tranquil lake itself, its resident ospreys, the old-growth forest, and the many backcountry travel options available from here. The entirety of Lena Lake and its booming outlet stream, as well as a significant portion of the West Fork Lena Creek Valley, have not been protected. The bulk of this acreage most certainly deserves to be added to The Brothers Wilderness.

Getting there: From U.S. 101 at Hoodsport, drive fourteen and a half miles north, then turn left on the Hamma Hamma River Road, also known as FS 25. Follow it nine miles to the trailhead on the right.

Description: Moderate-to-strenuous depending on length of walk, mid-spring through mid-fall. Typically a very quiet route, the first mile and a half of the Putvin trail passes through forest in the lower Boulder Creek Valley, an important tributary of the Hamma Hamma River. Just prior to entering the Mount Skokomish Wilderness, the intrepid hiker may opt to either explore the upper reaches of this little valley on a long-abandoned road, or seriously rough it to Olympic National Park’s Lake of the Angels. OFCO seeks to join The Brothers and Mount Skokomish Wilderness Areas through designation of the unprotected swath of wildlands between Boulder Creek and Lena Lake to the east.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #14, but continue a little over four miles more on Forest Service Road 25 to the trailhead on the right.

Description: Moderately strenuous, mid-spring through fall. A short trail, but also steep and mean. Only the latter portion of the one-mile Jefferson Ridge trail penetrates true wildlands. For its first two-thirds, the trail climbs straight up a hot and intensively logged area, though rewards may be found even here, given the views of Hood Canal and what seems to be thousands of blooming rhododendrons. After reaching the cool, untouched forest, the trail meanders to an old lookout site, with amazing views down to Lena Lake, across the Hamma Hamma Valley. OFCO proposes that the expanse of native forest from the lookout area and westward be added to the Mount Skokomish Wilderness.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #14 to the Hamma Hamma River Road/FS 25. After a little over six miles on FS 25, turn left on Forest Service Road 2480 and cross the river. Shortly after the bridge, make a right on FS Road 2421, and proceed steeply for two-to-three miles to the obscure trailhead. High clearance vehicles are best on FS 2421.

Description: Moderately strenuous, late spring to mid-fall. These long-time climbing routes allow passage to the high peaks of the Olympics’ southeastern corner. The two-mile Mount Ellinor trail has been improved in recent years and is now a non-technical ascent to the summit, once its infamous (and exhilarating) snow chute has melted for the year. The one-mile Mount Washington trail climbs to a pass on the Hamma Hamma/Skokomish divide. To proceed much farther requires mountaineering skills. OFCO proposes that the eastern faces of both peaks be added to the adjacent Mount Skokomish Wilderness.

Getting there: From U.S. 101 at Hoodsport, turn left on the Lake Cushman Road and drive nine miles to a T intersection. Make a right on Forest Service Road 24 for a mile and a half, then a left on FS Road 2419. The lower Mount Ellinor trailhead is reached at five miles on FS 2419, while the upper trailhead may be accessed by driving an additional mile and a half and turning left on spur road 014 to its end. The Mount Washington trailhead is located about a mile farther on the left side of FS 2419.

Description: Moderate, spring through fall. A great place to find solitude near the otherwise heavily used Staircase area, the six and a half mile Dry Creek trail ascends over 2,500 feet through a variety of ecological zones. The lower reaches of the valley feature rapidly maturing second growth forest, regenerating from logging several decades ago. The upper Dry Creek Valley is nonetheless classic old-growth forest. The impressive ramparts of Lightning Peak are at times glimpsed through the forest cover. OFCO proposes this area for addition to the Wonder Mountain Wilderness.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #17 to the T intersection. Make a left here onto FS Road 24 and drive two and a half miles to the head of Lake Cushman. Just prior to entering Olympic National Park, make a left on a long, narrow bridge and spot the trailhead immediately afterward on the left. The first mile of "trail" is on a private road with a public easement. Olympic National Forest is entered soon after.

Description: Moderate-to-strenuous, depending on length of walk, mid-spring through fall. The superb wild country of the Upper Skok represents the "southern gateway" to the Great Olympic Wilderness. The initial six miles of trail penetrate a prime example of the finest remaining ancient forest in the Northwest. The trail subsequently climbs to lovely subalpine meadows, busy with elk, on the edge of Olympic National Park. Yet, amazingly, the Upper Skok Valley remains unprotected to date. OFCO seeks to add the Upper Skok to the nearby Wonder Mountain Wilderness Area.

Getting there: From Potlatch on U.S. 101, drive south to cross the Skokomish River bridge, then one-half mile farther, and turn right on the South Fork Skokomish Road. After five and a half miles on the South Fork road, the road splits. Take the uphill fork, which becomes Forest Service Road 23. The road surface changes to gravel, then is paved again. Follow FS 23 for a total of thirteen miles, then carefully watch for a fork in the road (FS Road 2361) which dips downhill to the right. Follow FS 2361 five miles to its end at the trailhead. Note that FS 2361 is closed by a wildlife gate from November 1 through April 30 every year.

Description: Moderate-to-strenuous, late spring through mid-fall. This trail, which journeys up Church Creek in big trees, crosses a saddle near Chapel Peak on the Skokomish/Wynoochee divide, and continues to one of the Satsop Lakes, is a virtual unknown. As a result, solitude is often only a few footsteps away here, in a landscape that reminds one of the Three Lakes region of Olympic National Park. Truly a forgotten wildland, OFCO wishes to ensure protection of this area as an extension of the Wonder Mountain Wilderness.

Getting there: This trail previously had two access points, but Forest Service Road 2372 on the Wynoochee side is reportedly closed prior to the west trailhead. On the Skokomish side, follow the directions in Hike 19# and proceed approximately three miles on FS 2361. Keep an eye out for a sign on the right that says "Church Creek Shelter Trail." At this point, turn around and drive back down FS 2361 in the opposite direction for a short distance until a nearly grown-over road is spotted on the right. If your vehicle is appropriate for very rough grades, proceed on this spur (#600) as far as you can make it. Others will need to walk the road for a little over two miles to the actual trailhead, which is located at a sharp switchback in the road on the right.

Description: Easy-to-moderate, spring through fall. The Pine Lake trail is actually an old, decommissioned road. Although the roughly three-mile hike is therefore a bit monotonous in places, the splendid jewel of Pine Lake, surrounded as it is by huge trees, more than makes up for the effort. Densely forested Chapel Peak towers over this near-perfect fishing and swimming hole. Don’t expect much company. As with Chapel Peak, OFCO proposes that this area be added as an extension to the Wonder Mountain Wilderness.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #19 to FS Road 2361. Follow 2361 as it bridges Cedar Creek and switchbacks, then make the first available left on spur #200. Drive this spur to its present end. The road-trail takes off to the right above an earthen roadblock.

Description: Moderate, summer. The West Fork Humptulips is the perfect place to spend a hot summer day. Although infrequently used, the trail is easy to follow through the rain forest setting of Sitka spruce and shamrock-like oxalis. The route’s many river crossings are not bridged, meaning that it is best experienced during the narrow window of late summer, when the river is little more than a series of pleasant swimming pools. The five miles of trail downstream of Campbell Tree Grove Campground are recommended here, though the trail is much longer. Consider wearing your swimsuit along with your boots. OFCO’s aim is for designation of this stretch of trail, along with the green ridge above it, as the Moonlight Dome Wilderness Area.

Getting there: From the hamlet of Humptulips, north of Aberdeen on U.S. 101, continue north about three miles and turn right on Forest Service Road 22. Proceed on FS 22 roughly nine to ten miles, then make a left on FS Road 2204. Follow FS 2204 thirteen and a half miles to Campbell Tree Grove Campground. The trail heads downstream from the campground loop. An alternative access is via a trail spur at ten and a half miles up FS 2204 from its junction with FS 22, across the road from the Pete’s Creek trailhead.

Description: Easy-to-moderate, all year. Just above the vacation mecca of Lake Quinault is quite likely the most glorious reach of unprotected temperate rain forest to be found anywhere on the globe. The well designed Quinault Rain Forest loop trails invite people from all walks of life to experience the mossy majesty of the startlingly huge trees and integral wildlife to be found here. For those wanting to strike out on their own, the connecting Willaby Cedar trail leads across the rain forest flats to one of the largest recorded western red cedar trees. Without question, OFCO feels that the rain forest here, known as South Quinault Ridge, should be promptly added to the adjacent Colonel Bob Wilderness Area.

Getting there: From the village of Neilton, well north of Aberdeen on U.S. 101, proceed three additional miles north and turn right on South Shore Road. Of five possible trail access points, the first may be located one and a half miles along the South Shore Road on the right. Another access is one-half mile farther, directly across the road from Lake Quinault Lodge. Either of these trailheads deliver one to the Willaby Creek trail after a bit more than a mile of hiking.

Description: Moderate, spring through fall. The Bogachiel’s rain forest valley is one of the wildest in the Northwest; a primitive trail allows hiker and equestrian access. The first two miles of the Bogachiel trail are within Olympic National Forest, but are not congressionally protected. Significant aquatic and old-growth forest attributes may be found here, however. In order to ensure the ongoing integrity of the renowned Bogachiel River, OFCO seeks to protect the area through establishment of an Elk-Reade Wilderness.

Getting there: From Forks, drive south on U.S. 101 to Bogachiel State Park. Turn left here on the Bogachiel River Road (FS Road 2932) and drive a bit over four miles to the trailhead parking area on the right.

Description: Moderate, spring through fall. This is another example of a trail that was formerly a road for vehicles. The road grade is now gated year-round for elk habitat, and offers quiet hiking and camping. The hills here are relatively gentle for the Olympic Mountains and, though previously logged in places, are for the most part covered in old-growth forest. The wildlands here are proposed by OFCO for inclusion in an Elk-Reade Wilderness Area.

Getting there: Follow the directions in Hike #24. FS Road 2932 is gated at the Bogachiel trailhead, and the Elk-Reade hike begins at the road’s closure point.

Description: Moderate, late spring through mid-fall. Alckee Creek is a critical tributary of the Soleduck River, and is recognized by the Forest Service for its exceptional riparian habitat. Although over half of the Alckee Creek Valley is within Olympic National Park, its remainder within Olympic National Forest has not been congressionally protected. The Alckee Creek trail, formerly a road, begins high on the valley’s western ridge, and heads downstream to the Park boundary. Some areas were logged prior to the road’s closure, but eighty-five percent of the valley still maintains stands of original forest. OFCO proposes Wilderness designation for this area.

Getting there: From Lake Crescent, drive U.S. 101 west past the turnoff to Soleduck Hot Springs, continuing another three miles, then turn left onto Forest Service Road 2918. Follow FS 2918 approximately ten miles or so, then turn left onto the very rough spur road #100. Follow the spur based on what your vehicle can handle, and use caution. Stop the car and walk if you feel uncertain. Regardless, the road is impassable just below the ridge top. At this point, walk the old road grade across the ridge into Alckee Creek Valley.

Description: Moderate-to-strenuous, mid-spring through fall. The Mount Muller trail system has been constructed in fairly recent years by the Forest Service, and now encompasses over a dozen miles of high quality tread through forest and fire-created meadows. Hikers and equestrians have discovered the fantastic views up the Soleduck Valley and down to Lake Crescent from the area’s ridgeline, while also appreciating the snow’s tendency to melt out more quickly here than in other nearby locales. OFCO proposes this area be designated as the Mount Muller Wilderness.

Getting there: Following the directions for Hike #26, instead of turning left on FS Road 2918, turn right on FS Road 3071. The trail system begins at the end of this short road spur.

Consider contacting Olympic National Forest officials, before heading out, for updated information pertaining to road and trail conditions, as well as trailhead parking passes. The Olympic Forest and Park Recreation Information Office phone number is 360-374-7566. You may also log on to http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/olympic/